Ikat Fabric

Ikat, or Ikkat, is a dyeing technique used to pattern textiles that employs a resist dyeing process similar to tie-dye on either the warp or weft fibres.

 
Bindings, which resist dye penetration, are applied to the threads in the desired patterns and the threads are dyed. Alteration of the bindings and the dyeing of more than one color produce elaborate, multicolored patterns. When all of the dyeing is finished the bindings are removed and the threads are ready to be woven into cloth.

The defining characteristic of ikat is the dyeing of patterns, by means of bindings, into the threads before cloth construction, the weaving of the fabric, takes place. Herein lies the difference between ikat and tie-dye. In tie-dye the fabric is woven first and the resist bindings are then applied to the fabric which is dyed.
In warp ikat the patterns are clearly visible in the warp threads on the loom even before the plain colored weft is introduced to produce the fabric. In weft ikat it is the weaving or weft thread that carries the dyed patterns which only appear as the weaving proceeds. In weft ikat the weaving proceeds much slower than in warp ikat as the passes of the weft must be carefully adjusted to maintain the clarity of the patterns.

Double Ikat is where both warp and the weft are resist-dyed prior to stringing on the loom. Traditionally, and still commonly, a back-strap loom is used, though any variant or modern loom may be used.

Pakalongan's Batik

Pekalongan including coastal batik batik most rich in color. As is typical of coastal batik, various dressing usually are naturalists. When compared with other coastal batik Batik Pekalongan immigrant descent are strongly influenced China and the Netherlands. Pekalongan Batik is free, and interesting, although his motives are sometimes the same as Solo or Yogya batik, often modified with a variety of attractive colors. Not infrequently encountered on a piece of batik cloth to 8 bold colors and dynamic combination. The most popular motifs and is known from pekalongan Jlamprang batik motif.

Batik Pekalongan heavily marketed to the regions outside Java, including West Sumatra, South Sumatra, Jambi, Minahasa, to Makassar. Usually traders in this area ordered batik motifs that match the tastes and customs of each area.

 

Pekalongan Batik is a privilege, the pembatiknya keep up to date. For example, at the time of Japanese occupation, it is born with nama'Batik Javanese batik Hokokai ', ie with batik motifs and colors are similar to the Japanese kimono. In general, Javanese batik is batik Hokokai early in the afternoon. In the sixties, also created with the name Tritura batik. Even in 2005, shortly after President Yudhoyono appointed emerging batik 'SBY' is similar to batik or songket weaving dengankain. Motives are quite popular these days is the motive Tsunami. Indeed, the Pekalongan never run out of ideas to make batik creations.

Songket

Songket is a fabric that belongs to the brocade family of textiles of Indonesia, Malaysia, and Brunei. It is hand-woven in silk or cotton, and intricately patterned with gold or silver threads. The metallic threads stand out against the background cloth to create a shimmering effect. In the weaving process the metallic threads are inserted in between the silk or cotton weft (latitudinal) threads.

Songket of Melayu

Etimology

The term songket comes from the Malay/Indonesian word sungkit, which means "to hook". It has something to do with the method of songket making; to hook and pick a group of threads, and then slip the gold threads in it. Some says that the word songket was derived from songka, a Palembang cap in which gold threads was first woven. The word menyongket means ‘to embroider with gold or silver threads’. Songket is a luxury product traditionally worn during ceremonial occasions as sarong, shoulder cloths or head ties. Tanjak or Songket headdresses were worn at the courts of the Malay Sultanates. Traditionally Muslim women and adolescent girls wove songket; "some boys and men are also weaving today”. Traditionally-patterned Sumatran textiles embody a system of interpretable emblems.

History

The Tradisional Songket Machine

The historical records of use of gold thread in Indonesia and Malaysia is somewhat sketchy. Songket weaving is historically associated with areas of Malay settlement, and the production techniques could have been introduced by Indian or Arab merchants. It is not certain as to the songket's place of origin, however according to Kelatan tradition this weaving technique came from the north, somewhere in the Cambodia-Siam region and expanded south into Pattani, and finally reach the Malay court of Kelantan and Terengganu as early as 1500s. The weaving of songket continues as a small cottage industry on the outskirts of Kota Bahru and Terengganu. However, Terengganu weavers believe that songket weaving teachnique was introduced to Malaysia from India through Sumatra's Palembang and Jambi where it probably originated during the time of Srivijaya (7th to 11th century).

In Indonesian tradition, songket is associated with Srivijaya, a wealthy 7th to 13th century maritime trading empire based on Sumatra, due to the fact that Palembang is the famous songket producer in Indonesia. Songket is a luxurious textile that required some amount of real gold leafs to be made gold threads and hand-woven into exquisite fabrics, hictorically the gold mines are located in Sumatra hinterland; Jambi and Minangkabau highlands. Although gold threads was found buried in the Srivijaya ruins in Sumatra, along with unpolished rubies and pieces of gold plate, there is no corroborating evidence that the local weavers used gold threads as early as 600s to early 700s CE. Songket probably developed in later period somewhere in Sumatra.

Much documentation is sketchy about the origins of the songket but it is most likely that songket weaving was brought to Peninsular Malaysia through intermarriages between royal families. This was a common occurrence in the 15th century for sealing strategic alliances. Production was located in politically significant kingdoms because of the high cost of materials; the gold thread used was originally wound with real gold leaf.

Production centers

In Indonesia, songket is produced in Sumatra, Kalimantan, Bali, Sulawesi, Lombok and Sumbawa. In Sumatra the famous songket production centers is in Minangkabau Pandai Sikek area, West Sumatra, and Palembang, South Sumatra. In Bali, songket production villages can be found in Klungkung regency, especially at Sidemen and Gelgel village. While in the neighboring island of Lombok, the Sukarara village in Jonggat district, Central Lombok regency, is famous for songket making. Outside of Indonesia, further production areas include the east coast of the Malay Peninsula especially in Terengganu and Kelantan, and in Brunei.

Tarutung Songket

Terengganu Songket

Lurik Fabric

Culture is something we ought to preserve because they have such cultural values ​​are very strong with the people in Indonesia. In this case the striated fabric is one of our nation's wealth. This traditional striated fabric developed in Java, especially Jepara, Central Java and Yogyakarta. This traditional cloth is estimated there since ancient Mataram kingdom is evidenced by the inscription of striated wear cloth.

History of Cloth striated

 Lurik Traditional Machine

Striated fabric comes from the Javanese language, which means that Iorek lines which means a symbol of the simplicity. In antiquity striated fabric comes from a rural area of ​​Java. Originally striated fabric is made like a scarf that functions as a tank top or topless women.

At first, the striated pattern was very simple and the color is still black and white or both of these colors in combination. In antiquity this striated fabric yarn by preparing in advance. This yarn comes from a herbaceous plant with black and white.

Formerly striated fabric is widely used by people as everyday wear. Kebaya is usually made for women, while men are usually just as a man dress like sorjan. On the other hand striated fabrics are also made as a scarf that serves to hold the basket. In addition to that, striated also used in ceremonies relating to the trust misalanya such as harbor, mitoni, etc.

Some Kind of Lurik Fabric

Lurik Troso

In essence striated fabric striped only, but many variations snagat. Among them there are various shades of striated fabric, which is shades of yellow klenting, Sodo sakler, lasem, tuluh watu, lompong keli, Kinanti, flower Telo, mindi flower, jasmine secontong, ireng glutinous rice, glutinous bark, dom ndlesep, loro-pat, flower spinach , horse dawuk, tilted gravestone, sekebon lightning, etc..

With the growing age, many striated motifs that appear include crab companion, vine ringin, latitude kumelap, brother plain, plain white, and much more. That most current motif is the motif drizzle, ikat, dam mimi, and galer.

In antiquity various striated pattern very much, but over time the various shades of striated and even then had a little forgotten. Striated motifs are now many and varied colors that are adapted to current trends.

Lurik Fabrik In Modern Era

Lurik Creation

In ancient times only developing striated fabric dikaalangan ordinary people, but in the modern era such as this striated fabric widely used in everyday life. Usually striated fabric is made into clothes that kebaya even be used in everyday life. With the growing fashion fashion in Indonesia, the potential beauty of this striated fabric can be displayed with the varied styles without losing the elements of its cultural value. By including striated fabric with more modern bahanyang now many designers who get the highest a work of striated fabric is very impressive. Even striated fabric business has become highly developed among entrepreneurs.

Pink Lurik

Well, as a glimpse of striated fabric that I can describe. As a society that upholds the values ​​of culture would be nice if we were together to preserve the culture that has existed since the days of our ancestors in this beloved country. With this article I describe may be a starting point for us all to go back to preserve the cultural heritage in the archipelago without compromising its historic value. Hopefully this article useful to readers as well.

Batik : Culture of Indonesia

Indonesia Fabrics

Batik is a cloth that traditionally uses a manual wax-resist dyeing technique. Batik or fabrics with the traditional batik patterns are found in (particularly) Indonesia, Malaysia, Japan, China, Azerbaijan, India, Sri Lanka, Egypt, Nigeria, Senegal, and Singapore.

 

Javanese traditional batik, especially from Yogyakarta and Surakarta, has notable meanings rooted to the Javanese conceptualization of the universe. Traditional colours include indigo, dark brown, and white, which represent the three major Hindu Gods (Brahmā, Visnu, and Śiva). This is related to the fact that natural dyes are most commonly available in indigo and brown. Certain patterns can only be worn by nobility; traditionally, wider stripes or wavy lines of greater width indicated higher rank. Consequently, during Javanese ceremonies, one could determine the royal lineage of a person by the cloth he or she was wearing.

Other regions of Indonesia have their own unique patterns that normally take themes from everyday lives, incorporating patterns such as flowers, nature, animals, folklore or people. The colours of pesisir batik, from the coastal cities of northern Java, is especially vibrant, and it absorbs influence from the Javanese, Arab, Chinese and Dutch cultures. In the colonial times pesisir batik was a favourite of the Peranakan Chinese, Dutch and Eurasians.

UNESCO designated Indonesian batik as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity on October 2, 2009. As part of the acknowledgment, UNESCO insisted that Indonesia preserve their heritage. 

Batik Javanese Kraton in life has a spiritual content, because it is considered as a medium of reflection and meditation

A variety of shades and colors of Batik is influenced by various foreign influences. Initially, batik has a variety of shades and colors are limited, and some patterns may only be used by certain circles. But batik coastal absorb various external influences, such as foreign traders, and also in the end, the invaders. Bright colors like red popularized by the Chinese, who also popularized the phoenix pattern. European colonial nations also took an interest in batik, and the result is a style unknown before flowers (like tulips) as well as objects brought by the colonizers (buildings or horse-drawn carriage), as well as their favorite colors such as blue. Retain traditional batik s type, and is still used in traditional ceremonies, because usually each style has a representation of each.